Santa Rita “Triple C” 2008

The Triple C, a Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon & Carmenere blend, was my first big Chilean infatuation (I started with the 2007 vintage, however). Here, there’s a fantastic nose of black olive, burnt balsamic reduction with prunes, and charred black cherries amid hints of celery, graphite, and asparagus. Palate transitions into a fruitier wave of smoky cherry & black raspberry pie with touches of red salsa and subtle notes of baking spices. The palate is a touch candy-er and more jammy than the sensational 2007…but even though it’s a bit less my taste because of it, that result probably makes it appealing to more drinkers. The ’07 is still the better vintage, in my view, but this is pretty rock solid and wonderfully balanced. 92+ pts.

Falernia, Reserva Syrah 2010

Chilean Syrah from perhaps the most preeminent producer in Coquimbo. This is an intensely concentrated, near-black, purple beast. And, by “beast” I’m also hinting at an explosive nose of cured venison and boar meat. Underneath that, you find notes of bitter black cherries and blackberries with good old boldo making its usual appearance. The palate is incredibly rich and ripe…perhaps too ripe. Loads of blackberry and blueberry pie fruit splash up front before the mid palate swings through with the aforementioned meat flavors. Lingering notes of black pepper and boldo mix very nicely. Delicate tannins and relatively bright acidity lead me to think this could be more refined if given a few years. In the meantime, I think new world powerbomb fans will love the lush fruit palate. 92 pts.

Jacob’s Creek Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

The nose is both interesting and bewildering: it’s a base of bitter raspberry mocha with a splash of crème de menthe followed by spearmint leaf and a stalky vegetal note. The mouthfeel is a bit on the thinner side, and while the red chalky elements I’m perhaps compelled to associate with Coonawarra do flicker in conjunction with the fruit, it feels as if there are noticeable traces of imbalanced acidification that linger uncomfortably. A lot of nifty components here, but they don’t seem to be coming together. 82 pts.

Concha Y Toro, Marques de Casa Concha, Merlot 2009

Under-ripened green notes hold back what could be an otherwise beautiful offering here. The nose smacks of hearty classic boldo and basil leaf with molasses-baked plum; the entire meat-oriented, dessicated spice rack could be making a cameo here also. Velvety, dusty blackberries and dark plums taking their rite of passage into prunehood hold a good core of the palate but as much as I have a fondness for the leafy spice elements of Chilean wines, it comes across slightly imbalanced here, not letting the fruit shine through sufficiently. Every other sip or so seems to hint at an untapped potential, lost either specifically in this bottle or in this specific vintage (and/or perhaps in it being just past its prime). 86 pts.

Sforzato di Valtellina & Nino Negri

At the end of last month I had the pleasure to meet and taste with Sara Maule, brand ambassador of Nino Negri (the largest producer in Valtellina) and daughter of Casimiro Maule, its winemaker. This turned out to be quite an eye-opening experience for me, as (unfortunately) the wines of of the area are probably often something happened upon by accident rather than willful intent. They ought not to be.

Of the array that she had, it was the sfursat wines that shone most magnificently for me. The style is also written as “sforzato di Valtellina”, translated roughly (contextually) as “the forced wines of Valtellina”. This refers to the means by which these wines toe the tightrope between Barolo and Amarone: sforzato is a passito process where wine is made from dried grapes, the way Amarone is. However, instead of the Valpolicella grapes, sforzato di Valtellina uses chiavennasca, the synonym for nebbiolo in Valtellina.

The traditional Sfursat of Nino Negri (pictured) was perhaps my favorite, lending classic, old-world complexity with mind-boggling richness, intensity, structure, and elegance. They also produce a ‘5 Stelle’, their flagship, which sees 20 months of new French barrique, lending lots of fantastic sculpture.

So, the next time you’re in the mood for a heady, complex Italian red and are toying with Piedmont and/or Veneto, maybe you should take an adventure over to the north of Lombardy and find out what these hidden gems are all about.maule

Do You Suffer From Hyperactive Taste-bud Syndrome?

Do you, or someone you know suffer from Hyperactive Taste-bud Syndrome (HTS)?

Most people are unaware of the symptoms of HTS and go through life not knowing that they have this condition.

So what is HTS and how do you know if you suffer from HTS symptoms?

 

Try taking this Quiz:

1) Have you ever gone to the gym so that you could later splurge on a paté plate or a roasted bone marrow dish?

2) Has a plate of food or glass of wine brought you to tears because it was just “so perfect”?

3) Are you an adventurous diner who is constantly in search of something new?

4) Have you eaten meat in another country not knowing what it was?

5) When dining out do you make it a point to never order the same thing twice?

6) Are you the authority on the best burger place, taco truck, Indian restaurant, etc.?

 

If you answered yes to three or more questions, it is likely that you have HTS.

That’s right… you have a tasting addiction due to under stimulated hyperactive taste-buds.

When under stimulated, these little bad boys fire up and require you to splurge on that slice of key lime pie, or that glass of Ch. d’Yquem.

Splurging on items such as these can force your under stimulated taste-buds into hyper-stimulation, therefore controlling the symptoms for the time being.

Although it can be hard on your wallet, there is a positive side to having HTS.

The next time you order a four course meal for lunch, you can announce to the table: “Oh here we go… my HTS is acting up again”!

 

Laurent Barth S05 P164 Alsace Pinot Noir 2012

I love the region of Alsace. It has always been a consistent go-to for me for dry white wines, but recently the Pinot Noir’s of the region have been catching my attention. Many are quaffable, especially when slightly chilled, but some can really hold their own. I think Laurent Barth has produced a great biodynamic sipper here. While not overly complex, the wine shows a very aromatic character with notes of fresh strawberry, muddled cherry, and rhubarb. There is a backbone of minerality that really emphasizes the region, and an ever so slight petillance that keeps you coming back for more. Wet rock, compost, and the quintessential potpourri make this Pinot Noir exceptionally drinkable. A wine meant more for drinking with a meal rather than long contemplation- I am a fan. 89pts.

Doña Paula, Black Edition Red Blend 2012

(Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot.) Where old worlders and new worlders collide. Nose of raisinated plums & blackberries, burnt cedar, and toasted dark herbs & pepper dusted upon fresh black mulch over farmstead soil. On the palate, tobacco & bitter dark chocolate meld with balsamic-soaked black cherries & black raspberries amid rainforest underbrush. If not for hints of candied fruit, this could get pegged for a very ripe-year Bordeaux. Solid acidity and tannins, although the alcohol is a bit sharp. 92.