20 years of Chilean Carmenere

The long lost 6th grape of Bordeaux. It made its was to Chile in the 19th century, having been planted alongside other grapes. This presumably led to a ‘confusion’ between it and merlot, although a distinction is said to have been generally known, carmenere having typically being referred to as “merlot Chileno”.

But it was in 1994 that ampelographist Jean Michel Bousiquot from Montpelielier University discovered that it was indeed carmenere that Chile had been cultivating. The existence of carmenere was discovered in Carmen Vineyards on…you guessed it: November 24. Since the 90s, it has taken off and is seen as a now uniquely Chilean grape.

While it can be a tricky varietal to produce, since it can teeter between being too green if underripe and too flat if overripe, at its sweet spot, carmenere in Chile offers the lovely, spicy blackcurrant notes of cabernet sauvignon while maintaining the more smooth and rich texture of merlot. Keep an eye out for offerings from the regions of Peumo and Apalta and go find yourself a bottle or two and celebrate the 20th anniversary of Chilean carmenere!

Cheers!

carmday

Chateau St. Jean, Cinq Cepages 2009

This exudes an old-style, bakery-made cherry/redcurrant pie note that transitions into an extracted, glazed black raspberry doughnut profile in the mouth. Bits of mahogany, maple, spice, and sandalwood trickle in to bring this “grandma’s kitchen” feel into full focus. Despite all this, though, it’s not overtly or recklessly candied (if wine could be a stereotypical “comfort food”, this would be a good example). Rich and pretty. 92 pts.

Samuel Robert Winery, Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2013

This wine was a lot of fun, upon tasting, playing peek-a-boo back and forth between ripe Oregon and Burgundian styles. The nose offers a vivid burst of wild flowers, orchids and roses (amidst other garden florals I probably am not fully familiar with), followed by dry dusted pecan-covered strawberries and a hint of spearmint leaf. The palate is expansive, beginning with juicy dessert strawberries powdered lightly with toasted confection sugar. It then see-saws into notes of autumnal leaves and wisps of mushroom cap. Bitter nuts maintain a nice finish, and the wine breathes with elegance, playfulness, and zest. It’s a wonderful offering and what it lacks in outright intensity, it makes up for in nuance. Likely to be appealing across a wide spectrum of palates. 91 pts.

Ca’ Momi, Zinfandel 2013

The 2010 Ca’ Momi Napa Valley Zinfandel was one of the first zins that I had a mild infatuation with during my initial foray into wine. There was this unique caramel macchiato note mixed with the fruit that seemed incredibly nifty to me. As an homage to ‘National Zinfandel Day’, I thought I’d revisit an old friend and see how it was doing in its current vintage.

The 2013 has a pretty explosive nose of inner child holiday party going on. Raspberry mocha, blueberry jam, bitter dark chocolate, cedar chest, and a medley of clove, maple, and bilberry nuances tingle throughout. The palate shows perfumed, plummy raspberries, pancake blueberries, and brown sugar pastry up front. The finish is actually impressively long with touches of mulled wine spice and bitter nuttiness lingering quite nicely. Normally I want zins to be a water balloon splash, yet this is a bit more demure while still exuding umph…despite the fact that the palate is undoubtedly (again) your inner kid at heart. It’s unashamedly ‘New World’ fruity, but the integration of fun oak-based flavors really gives it character. The mouthfeel is a tad thin and it’s not overtly complex, but this wine is honest, fun, appealing, and a little bit nostalgic (at least for me). 89 pts.

Gérard Bertrand, Corbières 2010

Incredibly well-balanced Rhone blend, with fresh-squeezed red fruit and mossy, dewy earth on the nose, echoed into the palate with pretty, fine tannins mixed with a vibrant acidity. Touches of black red fruit in the medium-plus mouthfeel mirror the Syrah/Mourvedre aided color. A very nice touch of dusted walnuts zips into the mid-palate, before the smooth tannins and zippy acidity tango towards a great finish. A fantastic, underrated surprise. 91 pts.

Palazzo Cuvée Blanc 2012

I had the pleasure of tasting with Scott Palazzo on a recent trip of his to Nashville. His entire lineup was outstanding (including his beautiful, classic “Right Bank” blend and Cabernet Franc). This sneaky gem, though, was a surprise: a predominantly Semillon-based Bordeaux blanc style wine. Stones, white flower pollen, and hints of salt water build a solid scent, but it’s the mouthfeel of this wine that paints it as this beautiful enigma. It’s full and sumptuous but feels weightless in the mouth, as if defying gravity. The core is a nucleus of rich peardrop with touches of mango which seems enveloped in a forcefield of crystalline pebble rainwater that glides each sip seamlessly off your palate. Layers of subtleties with a clean profile also make it suitable for tons of food occasions. A unique adventure of a wine. 92 pts.

“International Tempranillo Day!”

Cencibel, Tinto Fino, Ull de Llebre, Tinta de Toro…  This lovely and sexy red varietal hails from the traditional lands of Spain, main- staying in the Rioja region.  Known by a variety of names all fitting appropriately to it’s characteristics, Tempranillo, for the most part, is a grape that perhaps deserves more recognition than what it currently has.  Tempranillo reds are sexy, lean, colorful and delicate at the same time.  Think about a ballerina.  Underneath that demure and delicate exterior, lies pounds of lean, mean muscle.  Ready to jump at you at a moments notice.  Hovering and twirling over the air with the skill of an acrobat yet the delicateness of a mime.  Unlike your big and bold flavor profile, classic varietals, Tempranillo takes its sensitive time to introduce itself.  Traditionally speaking, a glass will give you hints of brett which develop into more complex overtures of fruit and wood, a stable of aromas blend seemingly in unison.  Like an equestrian race, Tempranillo carries all the intensity, excitement yet refinement of its much more famous competitors yet its followers are a graceful few.  Perhaps with more exposure and time, this lovely export will be a regular at tables and wine lists all over.

Recently, efforts have been made to develop this red in the New World.  Be on the lookout for such producers from Oregon State, California, Australia, Argentina, Chile, even Mexico and Texas.  I’m sure it would be quite interesting to taste the difference between a traditional Rioja Tempranillo and Tempranillo 2.0 produced in the New World.

And remember, you don’t have to slay a bull to drink it’s blood, just open up a bottle of Tinta de Toro and enjoy with company over cheese and ham.

 

Modest Recommendations :  Ideally go for at least a Reserva or Gran Reserva

Dehesa La Granja 2004    100% Tempranillo

Viña Cubillo 2005    65% Tempranillo

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EnRoute “Les Pommiers” Pinot Noir 2012

Normally there’s some space between reviews, but this Russian River Valley gem was a standout from a tasting this afternoon. Lovely wafts of fresh dark roses and ripe red berries carry the aromas, transitioning into an incredibly elegant, soft cherry and strawberry palate that keeps the floral elements lingering. The acidity on this wine is phenomenal, helping the wine dance pirouettes in your mouth. This may be the most refined and complete California pinot noir I’ve had in a long time; seductive in profile, yet coy and uplifting in presence. It’s absolutely gorgeous. 93 pts.

Château Peyros 2008

(Madiran; 60% Tannat, 40% Cabernet Franc) Attractive nose of campfire smoke, spiced blackberries, dates, and prunes with slight floral hints of violets; lingering bursts of sweet clove dance throughout. There’s a sappy yet dry/stalky composure to the mouthfeel, showing red and black plums, craisins, black olives, and a dusting of soft, dark clay. Tannins (as to be expected from Tannat) show their grip, but it does retain a good acid balance. A nice offering but comes across somewhat as a solid boxer that lacks a decisive finishing blow. The value here, though, is superb. 89+ pts.

The 2004 Berlin Tasting

Most wine aficionados have become well-acquainted with the famous Judgment of Paris. In 1976, Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant, organized a wine competition intended to pit top-notch Bordeaux reds and Burgundian whites against select California Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays. Despite being hosted in Paris and having been scored by French wine judges, it turned out to be that California ended up with the top spot in both red (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 1973) and white (Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 1973) categories. The French were snubbed by their own scoring, the underdog Americans came out on top and, as the movie Bottle Shock showed, Chris Pine rides off into the sunset (or perhaps just onto the set of the next Star Trek movie).

However…a less well-known get together happened 28 years later, and is effectively the Chilean equivalent. A similar event coordinated by Eduardo Chadwick, president of Viña Errázuriz, was created in 2004 (with Steven Spurrier in attendance, to boot), hosting 36 international wine experts and critics, involving not just classic Bordeaux reds, but an Italian Super Tuscan as well. When all was said and done, the top 10 ranked as follows:

1- Viñedo Chadwick 2000
2- Seña 2001
3- Château Lafite-Rothschild 2000
4- Château Margaux 2001
4- Seña 2000
6- Viñedo Chadwick 2001
6- Château Margaux 2000
6- Château Latour 2000
9- Don Maximiano 2001
10- Château Latour 2001
10- Solaia 2000

Chile had won both 1st and 2nd place. Even more impressive is the fact that a number of the French wines were 2000 vintage, one of the best in Bordeaux in recent history. This is still considered a defining moment for catapulting Chile onto an international stage of top-tier quality.

At one of our recent tastings, we opened up a bottle of 1997 Seña (pictured; this began as a collaborative effort between Chadwick and Robert Mondavi to produce a Chilean icon wine) and it appeared to be the favorite of the night; fruit and spices still amazingly ripe and mixed with this beautiful rustic Saint Julien character. Also tasted were a 2000 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas Les Grandes Terrasses and a 2005 Château Gloria, both showing nicely as well.

Also pictured is a 2001 Seña which, as the list above shows, was the vintage that outshone the Bordeauxs back in 2004. That one, however, might sleep quietly for a while longer…

Cheers!

berlintastingsena