It’s been ten years since its release and, by now, everyone is likely familiar with the movie Sideways (or ought to be; Paul Giamatti is damn cool). We also know that both anecdotally and statistically, the biases of Miles in the movie toyed with public perception of both Pinot Noir and Merlot wines. Merlot took a hit thanks to Miles’ now famous: “I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” Consumers took the wine geek character’s words to heart, leading to a decrease in purchase of Merlot (to be fair, Miles’ poetic description of Pinot Noir led to a large uptick in its interest and that of wine in general, so it wasn’t all bad). However, there’s a next part to the story…
Merlot should have never gotten knocked down a peg at all. The central plot of the movie revolves around Miles finding his way towards transcending the depression and fixation he still harbors due to the disintegration of his relationship with his ex-wife Victoria. He (maybe not-so) secretly hoards the memories of his previous relationship while wishing he could get over them.
And that’s the clincher: he doesn’t actually hate Merlot (or Cabernet Franc, which he similarly badmouths during the tasting when we meet Sandra Oh’s character). He loves it; it’s the symbolic reflection of his ex-wife. His heart is just broken over it, and nowhere is it more metaphorically stated than with his prized possession: his 1961 Château Cheval Blanc (a right bank Bordeaux made of…Cabernet Franc and Merlot).
If he actually hated both, when the moment came to finally turn the page in his life he could have smashed the bottle or even sold it to buy something like a Richebourg (which he “oohed” at in the movie). Instead, however, he drinks it…in the simplest, quietest, most dressed-down way possible.
There’s so much to genuinely like about Merlot: it has the potential for depth and complexity yet comes across softer than its often-times partner Cabernet Sauvignon. At best, it comforts you with varying microfiber-ranges of velvety lushness while teasing your nose with perfumed and floral scents.
So, get over your breakup with Merlot (and Merlot-based wines) and go grab one or three. It’s totally personal preference, but I’d recommend either a Washington Merlot (for ‘new world fans) or a Pomerol (for ‘old-world’ aficionados). Or if you can get your hands on a bottle of Masseto…
Cheers!