Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2012

This really shows off the lighter/refined side of what Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon can be (which is not at all to say I don’t love the heady, brooding ones!). Complex nose offers toasted cinnamon-spiced black figs, blackcurrant, black raspberries, and jammed black cherries with dusty, herbaceous, meat-rubbing spices mixed with boldo and mint leaf whiffs. Round on the palate, but in a very clean, svelte profile. Ripe medley of clean-pressed fruit juice expressing black fig, black raspberry and blackberry prominence with a rush of bitter chocolate. It manages to maintain an elegant style while still retaining good punching power, and has a lively freshness and attractively lengthy finish. 90 pts.

Natural Cork vs. Synthetic Cork vs. Screwcap

I decided to pester some of the group as to their views on these three distinct wine bottle enclosures to see where everyone’s favorites lie:

Trisha:

I think these are all okay options but I think synthetic corks are kinda odd. I prefer having a real one or just going for the cap. Honestly, there are some issues using corks, but I figure that’s just apart of being in the wine business. Some wines will get corked. Which ever top is more economical that’s the one I’d go for, however, synthetic corks come across as cheap to me. I do love the nostalgia of the real corks.

 

Sam:

When we look at possible wine bottle closures we need to take into account the style and typicity of the wine being made. Is this wine meant to be drunk within 1 year? 5? 10? 20+? Also, is the wine made from a specific varietal and in a particular style in which the process of slow oxidation provides additional and beneficial aromas and flavors? Or is the wine made in a reductive manner in which a screw cap provides the optimal closure to perfectly express the varietal characteristics of the wine? While understanding that research still needs to be done on real cork vs. synthetic vs. screw cap closures, I think as of now they all have their place. On a less scientific note, as romantic and enjoyable as it is to pop the cork on an old Bordeaux and see the wine stain three quarters of the way up and present it to a table in an elegant manner, the romance is replaced with efficiency and ease when quaffing a screw capped Vinho Verde on a hot summer day.

 

Melissa:

Natural Corks:
Pro: traditional and preferred especially for red wines. Awesome in the presentation when dining out and ordering a bottle.
Con: corkage can occur

Synthetic Corks:
Pro: Less expensive than regular corks
Con: Once out of the bottle it can be difficult to put back in

Screw Caps:
Pro: Super easy to open, great when traveling and for parties. White wines age at a decelerated rate and therefore last longer
Con: Cheapens the appearance of the wine package. Can be awkward or embarrassing when ordering a bottle of wine when dining.

 

Rob:

I do get a bit irked when the immediate presumption from some diners or customers is that screwcaps are an immediate suggestion of inferior quality, however it’s hard not to appreciate classic natural corks in the same way that (impractical as they may be now) film cameras never lose their beauty despite digital cameras being the standard now. Oddly, I do tend to be sensitive to sulfur issues aided by screwcap enclosures and that does happen to be something that sways my personal bias. Synthetic corks run the gamut; cheaper ones really look and feel it, but then you get something like ArdeaSeal’s version, and it has great visual appeal. I suspect that kind of aesthetically built synthetic cork will be the future (particularly from a producer’s perspective when having to deal with TCA), but well-made natural cork always looks lovely to me.

Fire Road Pinot Noir 2012

Reductive nose, although it does impart a bit of smoke to a stalky, slightly green-noted spiced, black cherry nose. Good acid and tartness on the palate, swinging into charred cherries and candied black raspberry. It seems to be wanting to try, but is held back by reduction and a simplicity in profile. 81 pts.

Update: Tried this again during a tasting get-together today and suspect I may have been a bit harsh at the outset. When the sulfur elements blew off, the smoky notes remained and melded well with a eucalyptus-like green note while still echoing the aforementioned stalky elements. The fact that the wine is named based on a historical wildfire makes the incorporation of the smoky characteristics rather character-full. Revisited: 85+ pts.

Penfolds “Bin 8” 2012

(Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz) If Penfolds’ Bin 389 is “Baby Grange”, then the Bin 8 must be the grandchild. It grabs with classic Aussie herbaceous spice, leafy/woodsy notes, and charcoaled dark fruit on the nose. It follows up with ripe, smoked blackberry and black raspberry on the palate with an nice, uplifting brush of menthol leaf. Rock-solid. 90+ pts.

Domaine La Garrigue, Cuvee de l’Hostellerie, Vacqueyras 2009

Opens up marvelously and this comes from a next-day tasting. There’s a massive amount going on here, beginning with a nose that breathes deep forest compost, dark wildflower beds, musky blackberries & blueberries, hints of prunes & dates, and pressed dark strawberries all condensed into a vivid picture of a post-rainfall grove teeming with morning dew. The palate is a rich, raisinated, woodsy font of blackberries and black raspberries, fruit stems, and dried strawberries. The mid-palate bursts with an ashen smoke note that lingers and melds with the fruit till the finish without overtaking the other elements. This is a magnificent effort that evokes camping in deep, secluded virgin woods with dark and red fruits being smoked over a raw fire and served atop rustic cookware. Sensational structure and the continual refined, ashen element gives this wine an almost enigmatic, feral quality. Spellbinding. 94+ pts.

Caymus “40th Anniversary” Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

A lot of flair here, along with the lushness to stand a bit of age but perhaps not the acidity or tannin for extended, substantial cellaring. The bombastic, fruit-incense, lathered juiciness certainly has its place, though, and it sure as heck seems Caymus went all Dookerstyle for their anniversary. Spiced & charred plums, heavy dollops of cassis, velvety ripeness, and a hint of sweet tobacco. Palate is heady and smoky, but washed over with a subsequent wave of ripe black fruits, port-soaked black cherries, and lots of sweet dark cedar. The alcohol is somewhat well-cushioned in the voluptuousness of the wine, but is unmistakable. From a salesmanship perspective, this probably merits a 95 rating (considering the popularity of the style), but the underlying complexity and stuffing are just a bit lacking here for me. Still…likely to be a popular effort. 91 pts.

 

Skouras “Zoe” White 2012

(Roditis, Moschofilero blend). We’re taking a trip off the beaten path into Greece to find a lively, friendly wine that deserves attention. No need to worry about getting the pronunciation of the indigenous grapes of this wine down; just enjoy a bottle that trumps most Pinot Grigios that you’re likely even paying 50% more for. Pears, citrus, white flowers, and soft pebbles comprise the aromas leading into a snappy flavor profile that mixes those same elements with touches of kiwi and starfruit. It’s a simple, pretty, easy-going bright white that is a steal for the price while broadening your wine horizons. 88 pts.

Monte Antico, Toscana Rosso 2009

Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. An elegant medium-minus bodied Tuscan. Pretty potpourri and rose petals on the nose with a nice sharp mix of sour cranberries, acai, and pomegranate on the palate with a touch of cinnamon sugar to go along with lingering floral elements. More delicate than rustic, but a nice wine at an attractive price point. 90+ pts.

Why Merlot never deserved the bad rap

It’s been ten years since its release and, by now, everyone is likely familiar with the movie Sideways (or ought to be; Paul Giamatti is damn cool). We also know that both anecdotally and statistically, the biases of Miles in the movie toyed with public perception of both Pinot Noir and Merlot wines. Merlot took a hit thanks to Miles’ now famous: “I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” Consumers took the wine geek character’s words to heart, leading to a decrease in purchase of Merlot (to be fair, Miles’ poetic description of Pinot Noir led to a large uptick in its interest and that of wine in general, so it wasn’t all bad). However, there’s a next part to the story…

Merlot should have never gotten knocked down a peg at all. The central plot of the movie revolves around Miles finding his way towards transcending the depression and fixation he still harbors due to the disintegration of his relationship with his ex-wife Victoria. He (maybe not-so) secretly hoards the memories of his previous relationship while wishing he could get over them.

And that’s the clincher: he doesn’t actually hate Merlot (or Cabernet Franc, which he similarly badmouths during the tasting when we meet Sandra Oh’s character). He loves it; it’s the symbolic reflection of his ex-wife. His heart is just broken over it, and nowhere is it more metaphorically stated than with his prized possession: his 1961 Château Cheval Blanc (a right bank Bordeaux made of…Cabernet Franc and Merlot).

If he actually hated both, when the moment came to finally turn the page in his life he could have smashed the bottle or even sold it to buy something like a Richebourg (which he “oohed” at in the movie). Instead, however, he drinks it…in the simplest, quietest, most dressed-down way possible.

There’s so much to genuinely like about Merlot: it has the potential for depth and complexity yet comes across softer than its often-times partner Cabernet Sauvignon. At best, it comforts you with varying microfiber-ranges of velvety lushness while teasing your nose with perfumed and floral scents.

So, get over your breakup with Merlot (and Merlot-based wines) and go grab one or three. It’s totally personal preference, but I’d recommend either a Washington Merlot (for ‘new world fans) or a Pomerol (for ‘old-world’ aficionados). Or if you can get your hands on a bottle of Masseto

Cheers!

Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” Shiraz 2012

I really enjoy the classic components present here that offer punch without over-extraction. Aromas of charcoal briquette, black plum, and peppercorn-dusted prunes mix with touches of smoky beef jerky and bitter chocolate. Much of this is echoed into the palate, with a bit of a black raspberry lift kicking in; and there’s a pretty finish that mimics a nice chocolate stout. Great style that emphasizes peppery and meaty notes rather than alcohol and jamminess. 90 pts.