Everybody loves the underdog.

Spain is a country with a rich wine history that spans many centuries. In 2014 it overtook the top spot for global exports, jumping ahead of Italy and France. At first glance, you would think that might be evidence of strong, positive trends. However, the reasons for having garnered that honor fly in the face of what many areas, particularly Cariñena, are trying to overcome: the vast majority of the output was simple, mass-production bulk sales. The reputation for being merely a quaffable drink provider is hard to shake, but what is bubbling in the outskirts of Zaragoza is a prime example of something that hints at a much more quality-driven trajectory that the entire can get behind.

On the attractive side of improvement, Spain has seen a wonderful surge of interest in the last few years with Cava becoming a popular go-to bubbly, Albariño and Godello from the northwest coast offering sea-breeze freshness, Mencia smoldering on chic wine geek radars, and then there’s always the shadow of Tempranillo, rising into beauty in the classic regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. However, with all this attention being spread around, you begin to get a clue as to why wineries in Cariñena are attempting to make a splash in the pool, as if to ask “is what we have here not just as exciting?” Sometimes, just because of the business nature of wine, you’ll find them trying to figure out how to appeal to their potential markets (particularly in the United States) when, in reality, it is us who should be actively eager to seek them out.

Winemaking here can be traced back to the 3^rd century BC and it is one of the oldest regions to officially gain DO status is Spain. The more unique thing about Cariñena, though, is that the name refers to three distinct things: the name of the Denomination of Origin, the name of the town, and also the name of the grape: more widely known as Carignan, although it originally comes from this region. Grandes Vinos Y Viñedos, for instance, produces a fantastic bottling named “3C” specifically to make a point of this: Cariñena from Cariñena in Cariñena. That being said, this grape is certainly not the only one that the wineries here are profoundly excited about. Arguably, it plays second fiddle to the “Next Great Grape” of the region: Garnacha, which we also know from its French name: Grenache. It too traces its descendance to Spain. Cariñena has an angular potence and an incredibly firm yet regal structure. Garnacha offers a dense, spiced, fresh-pressed red fruit core while still showing vivacity. It’s exactly the kind of one-two punch that ought to distinguish a winemaking area, especially in the cases  where both complement each other in the same bottle.

It is close to a universal wine tenet that elevation and age of vines tend to contribute some of the more profound and structural elements to wines. The depth of components they tend to elicit comes thanks to climatic conditions that allow substantial phenolic ripening as well as retention of acidity brought by cooler air temperatures, especially in the evening. High-altitude areas in Napa Valley, such as Howell Mountain, are prized because of the intensity that their elevation provides; recent popular interest in the reds of Etna in Sicily has also hinged heavily on altitude and vine age. In the same context, the idea that there is untapped potential in Cariñena isn’t just a fanciful notion; these vineyards are found at between 1300 to 2600 feet and vines regularly are 30-100 years old. To boot, there is a surge of viticultural and winemaking energy evident in many of the producers of the area who realize that there is excitement to be found in their multitude of soils, the history of their grapes, and particularly in the stout age of its sometimes centenarian vines, even as new plantings emerge in the area.

One of the more fantastical aspects of the elevation in Cariñena is how quickly soils can change even simply on the walk from the bottom of a hill slope to the top, never mind how it changes with just a short car ride. The diversity of soil types generally ranges from the rich, reddish clay-based earth of the lower lands to the sharp, stony slate of the higher vineyards to large, rounded, nearly galet-like rock-gardens where vines, most of which are not irrigated, struggle and consequently deliver gorgeous fruit. Yet, the one recurring thing you can’t but be impressed by is the balanced minerality in these wines that echoes the recurring sentiment of wanting to offer complexity and quality that is true to the region.

        Cariñena seems to be in a phase where it’s beginning to understand the balance between classic ideas and adequate technology. On the one hand, you find an unashamed investment in quality modern equipment, the attention to aesthetics in how they focus on their wineries and office buildings, and a renegade desire to not be beholden to older winemaking regulations if it will impact the winemaking they feel can truly show what the area is all about. Yet, on the other hand, there is a concerted focus on minimalistic intervention in viticultural practices and on eliminating unnecessary chemical elements and focusing on sustainability.

For instance, despite what seemed to be an initially uncomfortable cost of implementation, wineries saw success upon collectively agreeing to undertake the insertion of pheromonal tags, which are placed on vines, in order to prevent the breeding of local moths that have been known to cause vineyard problems: a choice made with the mindset of avoiding insecticide alternatives when possible. You’ll also potentially happen upon 70 year old landowners in their vineyards still pruning the vines by hand in the scorching heat of the midday sun. The careful balance of both the classic and the modern is something emblematic of the area and it’s fantastic to see how that very same sentiment can be felt and tasted all the way through to the final wines.

With the multitude of rock soils, and in testament to the history and arduous work done in some of these remote vineyards, Cariñena wine has donned the name “El Vino de las Piedras”: wine of the stones. It is as much an assertion of pride in their own terroir as it is a perfect reflection of how the wines become. It’s not merely the continually prominent minerality that breathes through them, but what is striking about the character of these wines is how they are as a block of stone: meaning that the climatic and geographical conditions in the area (particularly the fierce Cierzo wind that rips through daily) make wines with intense, structured cores and upon these blocks do you find the winemakers individually becoming artists, chiseling out and carving away at their vinous liquids until the details and finesse show from underneath.

Despite all the arrows that point neatly towards an exciting  nucleus here in the Cariñena DO, it is still an area that flies under the radar of many wine aficionados and it is for that very reason that it’s truly a ripe wonderland for wine geeks who are continually looking for the next vinous nook of the world ready to rise to prominence. With that in mind, perhaps Cariñena may not be the underdog much longer.

THE WINES

In the next segments I’ll be outlining my thoughts on a number of bottlings from the three wineries I had the honor to visit during my trip to Cariñena: Bodegas Paniza, Bodegas San Valero, and Grandes Vinos Y Viñedos. The Garnacha and Cariñena based wines of all three find beautiful consistency and quality. I make sure to drive home that point because I ended up finding some other marvelous gems on the outside of that perimeter as well, so while those two grapes are the heart and soul of Cariñena DO there’s still much more to enjoy. Cheers!

Bodegas Paniza

Bodegas Paniza, Rosé Garnacha 2014

While they were understandably focused on showing off their powerful reds, the rosés from here ought not to be underestimated. Winemaker Antonio Serrano toyed with two different maceration lengths on rosés he’s been trying. This one sees 2 weeks and has both delicacy and vibrancy, showing spritely mango, cantaloupe, strawberry, orange peel, and incredible exotic body-spray aromatics while somewhat mimicking a Provence style but showing a richer fruit generosity. The bottle may be a bit cheeky (although it has market appeal) and the longer maceration rosé might be juicier, but this really rocks the lighter style while being fruity enough to appeal to summer drinkers.

Bodegas Paniza, Artigazo 2008

Their flagship bottling is a blend of 40% Garnacha, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Syrah. As you tend to find with Syrah and Grenache in other areas of the world, there’s a brooding smoked profile here of tobacco and charcoal, but it gets built up with a deep chocolate-covered berry profile. Dark florals, whiffs of mulled wine spices, and a hint of bay leaf round out a wine that’s still structurally massive (especially tannin-wise) even at 7 years of age. The density and the 18 months of aging in French oak make this a wine worth stashing for a bit.

Additional thoughts: The winery is the effective financial hub of the town of Paniza. It’s a huge responsibility, especially when you’re trying to blaze your own path. The wines, across the board, show fantastic promise. A 2013 oaked Cariñena of theirs that I tasted was incisive and fantastic, missing perhaps only a dense core of brooding juice to make it amazing. Coincidentally, we followed that wine with a 2014 Syrah that was all burly heft and you couldn’t help but wonder how they both might behave together. The energy and desire to jump into the limelight makes Bodegas Paniza a fun winery to follow as you suspect that once they develop a stride, things will explode.

Website: http://www.bodegaspaniza.com

Bodegas San Valero

BSV, Particular Chardonnay/Moscatel 2014

This sears with all the characteristics you’d expect for high altitude whites. There’s a wonderful mineral profile to this wine; it’s almost Bordeaux Blanc-like. The melding of that with the floral aromatics of the Moscatel and the just-ripe lemon, lime, and apple fruit gets further lifted by a bracing acidity. It’s not overtly deep, but the balance on this wine is outstanding. I will admit, for objectivity, that I experienced this wine by drinking it in the vineyard where the grapes were grown with the General Manager, the winemaker, and the vineyard owner…but the wine truly over-performs for what it is. I’d add this to the by-the-glass section of a wine list in a heartbeat.

Bodegas San Valero, Sierra de Viento, Late Harvest Muscat de Alexandria

It seems a bit unfair not to highlight one of BSV’s fantastic reds (the Particular Cariñena is “Particular-ly” lovely), but this dessert wine sung to me like a siren. Named after the famed fierce wind that blows in the town of Zaragoza, this amber beauty is a heavenly nectar of orange peel, citrus incense, aromatic oils, and clove wafting over a viscous orange creamsicle and tangy honey core. Sweet digestif wines are maybe always easy to fall for, but this was the first thing I made sure to grab at their store to bring back with me.

Additional thoughts: You genuinely get the sense of an honest communal kind of effort and involvement here, even with 700 associated winegrowers in their ranks. Unexpectedly running into one of the them in his vineyard as we were tasting the wine seemed to bring that sentiment into view clearly. Yet, the winery does not spare clinical effort, critical selection, and a willingness to embrace modernity and technology despite 71 years of history. The entire Particular lineup, which is being well-promoted, is a delicious and fantastic testament to this. The Particular Cariñena consistently performs well in reviews regardless of who is writing about it. Also, their Grand Ducay cava is a top-notch, serious taste of bubbly.

Website: http://www.sanvalero.com

Grandes Vinos Y Viñedos

Beso de Vino, Garnacha 2014

In reality, the entire Beso line is one screaming value after another. I was actually already familiar with their Syrah-heavy Seleccion Especial, which boasts phenomenal meatiness and black fruit, but the Garnacha seems to show off all the reasons I think it often does better with less oak: peppered fresh wild strawberries that taste as if they were just pressed in old baskets and filtered just before savoring. Their Anayón Garnacha may garner more appeal because of the fantastic density (and the vineyard those grapes come from is gorgeous), but this is as pleasing a daily drinker as you’re likely to find.

Grandes Vinos Y Vinedos, “3C” 2013

I secretly wanted to lose my passport while staying in Zaragoza and Madrid, which was funny upon talking to winemaker Marcelo Morales, a Chilean native (which made me smile since I’d lived there in my youth), who confided that he had planned to stay in Spain for a year when first arriving. It’s now been 15. Stories aside, this 3C is really a kind of culmination of what the region is attempting to accomplish: echoing the DO, grape, and town all in one (as I’d mentioned earlier). The underlying structure underneath this wine nearly belies the fact that it’s refined with and elegance that works in tandem with the smoky black fruit.

Additional thoughts: The picturesque yet classic layout of the winery couldn’t be more apt an aesthetic to their wines. They showcased a tasting of Garnacha wines, each sampled from increasingly higher elevations and it was undeniably evident how much the altitude plays towards the sheer concentration of the wine. It was probably one of the best sensory indicators of why this region is a secret gem. Their entire Anayón lineup has rightly garnered plenty of praise and medals, but the barrel sample of the current-vintage Chardonnay we tasted showed particular precision and tension )thanks to the bracing minerality and acidity emblematic of the region) that tip-toes in balance against the rich, viscous nature of the juice this grape offers under good phenolic-ripening conditions, especially when French oak-aged.

Website: http://www.grandesvinos.com

I decided to pester some of the group as to their views on these three distinct wine bottle enclosures to see where everyone’s favorites lie:

Trisha:

I think these are all okay options but I think synthetic corks are kinda odd. I prefer having a real one or just going for the cap. Honestly, there are some issues using corks, but I figure that’s just apart of being in the wine business. Some wines will get corked. Which ever top is more economical that’s the one I’d go for, however, synthetic corks come across as cheap to me. I do love the nostalgia of the real corks.

Sam:

When we look at possible wine bottle closures we need to take into account the style and typicity of the wine being made. Is this wine meant to be drunk within 1 year? 5? 10? 20+? Also, is the wine made from a specific varietal and in a particular style in which the process of slow oxidation provides additional and beneficial aromas and flavors? Or is the wine made in a reductive manner in which a screw cap provides the optimal closure to perfectly express the varietal characteristics of the wine? While understanding that research still needs to be done on real cork vs. synthetic vs. screw cap closures, I think as of now they all have their place. On a less scientific note, as romantic and enjoyable as it is to pop the cork on an old Bordeaux and see the wine stain three quarters of the way up and present it to a table in an elegant manner, the romance is replaced with efficiency and ease when quaffing a screw capped Vinho Verde on a hot summer day.

Melissa:

Natural Corks:
Pro: traditional and preferred especially for red wines. Awesome in the presentation when dining out and ordering a bottle.
Con: corkage can occur

Synthetic Corks:
Pro: Less expensive than regular corks
Con: Once out of the bottle it can be difficult to put back in

Screw Caps:
Pro: Super easy to open, great when traveling and for parties. White wines age at a decelerated rate and therefore last longer
Con: Cheapens the appearance of the wine package. Can be awkward or embarrassing when ordering a bottle of wine when dining.

Rob:

I do get a bit irked when the immediate presumption from some diners or customers is that screwcaps are an immediate suggestion of inferior quality, however it’s hard not to appreciate classic natural corks in the same way that (impractical as they may be now) film cameras never lose their beauty despite digital cameras being the standard now. Oddly, I do tend to be sensitive to sulfur issues aided by screwcap enclosures and that does happen to be something that sways my personal bias. Synthetic corks run the gamut; cheaper ones really look and feel it, but then you get something like ArdeaSeal’s version, and it has great visual appeal. I suspect that kind of aesthetically built synthetic cork will be the future (particularly from a producer’s perspective when having to deal with TCA), but well-made natural cork always looks lovely to me.

Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. An elegant medium-minus bodied Tuscan. Pretty potpourri and rose petals on the nose with a nice sharp mix of sour cranberries, acai, and pomegranate on the palate with a touch of cinnamon sugar to go along with lingering floral elements. More delicate than rustic, but a nice wine at an attractive price point. 90+ pts.

It’s been ten years since its release and, by now, everyone is likely familiar with the movie Sideways (or ought to be; Paul Giamatti is damn cool). We also know that both anecdotally and statistically, the biases of Miles in the movie toyed with public perception of both Pinot Noir and Merlot wines. Merlot took a hit thanks to Miles’ now famous: “I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” Consumers took the wine geek character’s words to heart, leading to a decrease in purchase of Merlot (to be fair, Miles’ poetic description of Pinot Noir led to a large uptick in its interest and that of wine in general, so it wasn’t all bad). However, there’s a next part to the story…

Merlot should have never gotten knocked down a peg at all. The central plot of the movie revolves around Miles finding his way towards transcending the depression and fixation he still harbors due to the disintegration of his relationship with his ex-wife Victoria. He (maybe not-so) secretly hoards the memories of his previous relationship while wishing he could get over them.

And that’s the clincher: he doesn’t actually hate Merlot (or Cabernet Franc, which he similarly badmouths during the tasting when we meet Sandra Oh’s character). He loves it; it’s the symbolic reflection of his ex-wife. His heart is just broken over it, and nowhere is it more metaphorically stated than with his prized possession: his 1961 Château Cheval Blanc (a right bank Bordeaux made of…Cabernet Franc and Merlot).

If he actually hated both, when the moment came to finally turn the page in his life he could have smashed the bottle or even sold it to buy something like a Richebourg (which he “oohed” at in the movie). Instead, however, he drinks it…in the simplest, quietest, most dressed-down way possible.

There’s so much to genuinely like about Merlot: it has the potential for depth and complexity yet comes across softer than its often-times partner Cabernet Sauvignon. At best, it comforts you with varying microfiber-ranges of velvety lushness while teasing your nose with perfumed and floral scents.

So, get over your breakup with Merlot (and Merlot-based wines) and go grab one or three. It’s totally personal preference, but I’d recommend either a Washington Merlot (for ‘new world fans) or a Pomerol (for ‘old-world’ aficionados). Or if you can get your hands on a bottle of Masseto…

Cheers!

The long lost 6th grape of Bordeaux. It made its was to Chile in the 19th century, having been planted alongside other grapes. This presumably led to a ‘confusion’ between it and merlot, although a distinction is said to have been generally known, carmenere having typically being referred to as “merlot Chileno”.

But it was in 1994 that ampelographist Jean Michel Bousiquot from Montpelielier University discovered that it was indeed carmenere that Chile had been cultivating. The existence of carmenere was discovered in Carmen Vineyards on…you guessed it: November 24. Since the 90s, it has taken off and is seen as a now uniquely Chilean grape.

While it can be a tricky varietal to produce, since it can teeter between being too green if underripe and too flat if overripe, at its sweet spot, carmenere in Chile offers the lovely, spicy blackcurrant notes of cabernet sauvignon while maintaining the more smooth and rich texture of merlot. Keep an eye out for offerings from the regions of Peumo and Apalta and go find yourself a bottle or two and celebrate the 20th anniversary of Chilean carmenere!

Cheers!

Cencibel, Tinto Fino, Ull de Llebre, Tinta de Toro…  This lovely and sexy red varietal hails from the traditional lands of Spain, main- staying in the Rioja region.  Known by a variety of names all fitting appropriately to it’s characteristics, Tempranillo, for the most part, is a grape that perhaps deserves more recognition than what it currently has.  Tempranillo reds are sexy, lean, colorful and delicate at the same time.  Think about a ballerina.  Underneath that demure and delicate exterior, lies pounds of lean, mean muscle.  Ready to jump at you at a moments notice.  Hovering and twirling over the air with the skill of an acrobat yet the delicateness of a mime.  Unlike your big and bold flavor profile, classic varietals, Tempranillo takes its sensitive time to introduce itself.  Traditionally speaking, a glass will give you hints of brett which develop into more complex overtures of fruit and wood, a stable of aromas blend seemingly in unison.  Like an equestrian race, Tempranillo carries all the intensity, excitement yet refinement of its much more famous competitors yet its followers are a graceful few.  Perhaps with more exposure and time, this lovely export will be a regular at tables and wine lists all over.

Recently, efforts have been made to develop this red in the New World.  Be on the lookout for such producers from Oregon State, California, Australia, Argentina, Chile, even Mexico and Texas.  I’m sure it would be quite interesting to taste the difference between a traditional Rioja Tempranillo and Tempranillo 2.0 produced in the New World.

And remember, you don’t have to slay a bull to drink it’s blood, just open up a bottle of Tinta de Toro and enjoy with company over cheese and ham.

Modest Recommendations :  Ideally go for at least a Reserva or Gran Reserva

Dehesa La Granja 2004    100% Tempranillo

Viña Cubillo 2005    65% Tempranillo

Most wine aficionados have become well-acquainted with the famous Judgment of Paris. In 1976, Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant, organized a wine competition intended to pit top-notch Bordeaux reds and Burgundian whites against select California Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays. Despite being hosted in Paris and having been scored by French wine judges, it turned out to be that California ended up with the top spot in both red (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 1973) and white (Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 1973) categories. The French were snubbed by their own scoring, the underdog Americans came out on top and, as the movie Bottle Shock showed, Chris Pine rides off into the sunset (or perhaps just onto the set of the next Star Trek movie).

However…a less well-known get together happened 28 years later, and is effectively the Chilean equivalent. A similar event coordinated by Eduardo Chadwick, president of Viña Errázuriz, was created in 2004 (with Steven Spurrier in attendance, to boot), hosting 36 international wine experts and critics, involving not just classic Bordeaux reds, but an Italian Super Tuscan as well. When all was said and done, the top 10 ranked as follows:

1- Viñedo Chadwick 2000
2- Seña 2001
3- Château Lafite-Rothschild 2000
4- Château Margaux 2001
4- Seña 2000
6- Viñedo Chadwick 2001
6- Château Margaux 2000
6- Château Latour 2000
9- Don Maximiano 2001
10- Château Latour 2001
10- Solaia 2000

Chile had won both 1st and 2nd place. Even more impressive is the fact that a number of the French wines were 2000 vintage, one of the best in Bordeaux in recent history. This is still considered a defining moment for catapulting Chile onto an international stage of top-tier quality.

At one of our recent tastings, we opened up a bottle of 1997 Seña (pictured; this began as a collaborative effort between Chadwick and Robert Mondavi to produce a Chilean icon wine) and it appeared to be the favorite of the night; fruit and spices still amazingly ripe and mixed with this beautiful rustic Saint Julien character. Also tasted were a 2000 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas Les Grandes Terrasses and a 2005 Château Gloria, both showing nicely as well.

Also pictured is a 2001 Seña which, as the list above shows, was the vintage that outshone the Bordeauxs back in 2004. That one, however, might sleep quietly for a while longer…

Cheers!

At the end of last month I had the pleasure to meet and taste with Sara Maule, brand ambassador of Nino Negri (the largest producer in Valtellina) and daughter of Casimiro Maule, its winemaker. This turned out to be quite an eye-opening experience for me, as (unfortunately) the wines of of the area are probably often something happened upon by accident rather than willful intent. They ought not to be.

Of the array that she had, it was the sfursat wines that shone most magnificently for me. The style is also written as “sforzato di Valtellina”, translated roughly (contextually) as “the forced wines of Valtellina”. This refers to the means by which these wines toe the tightrope between Barolo and Amarone: sforzato is a passito process where wine is made from dried grapes, the way Amarone is. However, instead of the Valpolicella grapes, sforzato di Valtellina uses chiavennasca, the synonym for nebbiolo in Valtellina.

The traditional Sfursat of Nino Negri (pictured) was perhaps my favorite, lending classic, old-world complexity with mind-boggling richness, intensity, structure, and elegance. They also produce a ‘5 Stelle’, their flagship, which sees 20 months of new French barrique, lending lots of fantastic sculpture.

So, the next time you’re in the mood for a heady, complex Italian red and are toying with Piedmont and/or Veneto, maybe you should take an adventure over to the north of Lombardy and find out what these hidden gems are all about.

Do you, or someone you know suffer from Hyperactive Taste-bud Syndrome (HTS)?

Most people are unaware of the symptoms of HTS and go through life not knowing that they have this condition.

So what is HTS and how do you know if you suffer from HTS symptoms?

Try taking this Quiz:

1) Have you ever gone to the gym so that you could later splurge on a paté plate or a roasted bone marrow dish?

2) Has a plate of food or glass of wine brought you to tears because it was just “so perfect”?

3) Are you an adventurous diner who is constantly in search of something new?

4) Have you eaten meat in another country not knowing what it was?

5) When dining out do you make it a point to never order the same thing twice?

6) Are you the authority on the best burger place, taco truck, Indian restaurant, etc.?

If you answered yes to three or more questions, it is likely that you have HTS.

That’s right… you have a tasting addiction due to under stimulated hyperactive taste-buds.

When under stimulated, these little bad boys fire up and require you to splurge on that slice of key lime pie, or that glass of Ch. d’Yquem.

Splurging on items such as these can force your under stimulated taste-buds into hyper-stimulation, therefore controlling the symptoms for the time being.

Although it can be hard on your wallet, there is a positive side to having HTS.

The next time you order a four course meal for lunch, you can announce to the table: “Oh here we go… my HTS is acting up again”!

The launch of WineNashville.com!